Ángel Muro et El Practicón : enjeux et perspectives de la littérature gastronomique au XIXe siècle en Espagne

Abstract : While nothing predestined him to start working on culinary writing, the journalist Ángel Muro published the Practicón in 1894 which became the most edited cookbook in Spain. It was a real success : in the first year of its publication, the book knew five reprints and its popularity has grown over the years as the culinary Treaty has not less than thirty-four editions, the last one being in 1928. Much more than a cookbook with numerous and varied recipes, the book looks more like a hybrid book : once a treaty on home economics and health food, then a book of civility, or even restaurant guide, Muro’s culinary Treaty is the meaning of the existence of a culinary discourse in Spain at the 19th century, between appropriation and rejection, is being built despite the gourmet French hegemony in Europe. Therefore, the tension between tradition and modernity is revealing. At the crossroads of two paths, the Practicón, while in the continuity of the culinary kind whose shape is the same, also brings an interesting light on this period of change which is symbolic of the 19th century, is clearly defining itself as a work of its time reflecting the latest scientific advances and highlighting the social problems of its time. Exploited, the Spanish cuisine is at the heart of the ideological debates : on the one hand, it serves the interests of the upper class who, in search of social legitimacy, sees in it the way to show off her social superiority and, on the other hand, it’s part of the development of a discourse on national identity. Beyond a simple codification of cooking, Muro’s book has therefore different meanings, thanks to its historical and cultural roots, thus inviting us to question the author’s eye on the Spanish culinary art of the end of the 19th century.
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Marie Baquet. Ángel Muro et El Practicón : enjeux et perspectives de la littérature gastronomique au XIXe siècle en Espagne. Littératures. Université Sorbonne Paris Cité, 2017. Français. ⟨NNT : 2017USPCA158⟩. ⟨tel-02159955v3⟩

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