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Impacts des vagues sur les courants marins : Modélisation multi-échelle de la plage au plateau continental

Abstract : The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sediment supply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented. The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a good reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.
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Contributor : Héloïse Michaud <>
Submitted on : Monday, April 16, 2012 - 1:25:10 PM
Last modification on : Thursday, October 15, 2020 - 4:06:54 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Wednesday, December 14, 2016 - 11:26:33 PM


  • HAL Id : tel-00680405, version 2


Héloïse Michaud. Impacts des vagues sur les courants marins : Modélisation multi-échelle de la plage au plateau continental. Océanographie. Université Montpellier II - Sciences et Techniques du Languedoc, 2011. Français. ⟨tel-00680405v2⟩



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