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Remotely-sensed rip current dynamics and morphological control in high-energy beach environments

Abstract : Understanding the surf zone circulation and the morphological changes within the nearshore is essential for both scientific and societal interests. However, direct measurements with in-situ instruments are logistically challenging and expensive. The development of optical remote sensing techniques in combination with low-cost image platforms and open-source algorithms offers the possibility of collecting large amounts of information at a reasonable instrumental and computational cost. This work builds on existing and new video monitoring techniques to remotely sense the nearshore bathymetry as well as the surf zone circulation in a high-energy meso-macro tidal beach environment, including storm events. The methods are validated against a dense data set acquired during an intensive field campaign conducted at Anglet beach, SW France. For the first time the temporal and spatial variability of concurrent nearshore bathymetry and surface currents are addressed under high-energy wave forcing.
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Submitted on : Friday, November 19, 2021 - 10:53:12 AM
Last modification on : Saturday, November 20, 2021 - 3:49:19 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Sunday, February 20, 2022 - 6:37:37 PM


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  • HAL Id : tel-03436157, version 1



Isaac Rodriguez Padilla. Remotely-sensed rip current dynamics and morphological control in high-energy beach environments. Geophysics [physics.geo-ph]. Université de Bordeaux, 2021. English. ⟨NNT : 2021BORD0218⟩. ⟨tel-03436157⟩



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