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Déterminants biomécaniques de la performance en escalade : étude de la force des membres supérieurs et de la relation force- vitesse chez les sportifs de haut niveau

Abstract : This PhD work was interested in the production of force output and the force-velocity-power relationship of the upper limb in high-level climbing athletes. The first part of the study focused on two key aspects of performance: the maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) of fingers' flexor muscles and the rate of force development (RFD). A measurement protocol was set up and the reliability was checked. This showed that a 4-weeks-only specific training has an impact on RFD evolution. This protocol also checked the fact that high-level climbers have higher MVC and RFD: the difference between them and other athletes, including advanced climbers, is significant. Likewise, this protocol confirmed that fingers flexor muscles maximum contraction and RFD significantly differ depending on the discipline: they are higher in bouldering climbers than in lead climbing ones. The second part of this work studied a third key determinant of performance in climbing: the arms muscles external force production at different speeds. A test was run on panels of high-level climbers representatives of the three disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing. It resulted in major differences in the force-velocity-power relationship depending on the discipline. Bouldering climbers notably showed a force production at high speed rate significantly higher than the two other groups. However, at lower speed rate, the force production was not a discriminative criteria between the three groups. To conclude, this work showed that the quantitative assessment of determinant biomechanical factors could be beneficial as a complement to qualitative tools available to coaches/trainers. Thus, depending on the discipline and upcoming sport deadlines, a specific training could be set up and an unbiased follow-up of the climbers' performances could be obtained.
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https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-02936027
Contributor : Guillaume Levernier <>
Submitted on : Thursday, September 10, 2020 - 8:34:44 PM
Last modification on : Monday, October 19, 2020 - 11:01:19 AM

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G. Levernier. Déterminants biomécaniques de la performance en escalade : étude de la force des membres supérieurs et de la relation force- vitesse chez les sportifs de haut niveau. Sciences du Vivant [q-bio]. Université Paris-Saclay, 2019. Français. ⟨tel-02936027⟩

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