Caractérisation rhéologique multi-échelle des émulsions cosmétiques pour leur stabilité et leur conservation

Abstract : In the last 20 years, many non-invasive methods and techniques have been developed in order to measure the properties (physicochemical, sensory, etc.) of cosmetic products. These methods are designed to evaluate their safety and effectiveness, and become even more sophisticated as the processes of developing these products become complex and innovative.During this thesis works, a multi-scale study of the structural evolution of cosmetic emulsions was conducted in order to predict their textural and microbiological stability.The study of the link between the structural organization of these emulsions with their composition and their stability was one of the first challenges. Thanks to an ultrasonic non-destructive technique allowing access to micro-rheological properties (viscoelastic properties observed during a harmonic loading of shear at a few MHz), in association with different classical characterization techniques (optical microscopy, low frequency rheology, etc. .); it was possible to correlate the micro-rheological parameters obtained with physical models linking internal structuring and stability in the emulsions considered. The results showed that micro-rheological data are sensitive to variations in compositions (concentration) and microscopic organization of micelles within emulsions (flocculation, coalescence, etc.).Then, the follow-up of the evolution of Pseudomonas fluorescens bacteria in emulsions with different internal structures showed on the one hand the sensitivity of micro-rheology towards the presence of bacteria in the cream, and on the other hand, the impact of the structure and organization of micelles on the development of these bacteria.Finally, micro-rheology appears to be an innovative measurement method adapted on an industrial scale providing added value when developing cosmetic formulations. From a safety point of view, the early detection of biological contaminations by the detection of structural instabilities (of changes) within emulsions could represent a major advance during the production and marketing phases of cosmetic products.
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Davina Desplan. Caractérisation rhéologique multi-échelle des émulsions cosmétiques pour leur stabilité et leur conservation. Génie chimique. Université de Cergy Pontoise, 2018. Français. ⟨NNT : 2018CERG0962⟩. ⟨tel-02284431⟩

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