Les griffes et le couturier : Représentations et usages contrastés de l'animalité dans l'iconographie de la mode

Abstract : This research explores the connections between fashion and the animal, by means of an iconographic study guided by a multidisciplinary approach. Raising fascination and paradoxes, the use of the animal and its attributes – physical, graphical, symbolic – benefits, in the first place, material and symbolic fashion’s productions : animals are involved in the transfiguration-of-reality strategies peculiar to the unique economic sector that is fashion industry. At the same time, animals appear to be an efficient and aesthetic way of representing human activity : they are a tool to rethink the world, human nature and social relationships. Thus, involved in the general contemporary dynamics of keen interest for a fantasized Wilderness, the fashion iconography contributes to the current rewriting of human definition. Nevertheless, fashion pictures play a part in the growing negotiation of boundaries between members of the biological field. By developing a specific work on the human body an its fineries, they offer an alternative path to the reconsideration of an animal otherness whose borders seem more permeable everyday. This work is an attempt to examine how fashion's visual forms and imaginary express the contemporary complexity of far-changing anthropozoologic interactions.
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Elsa Chanforan. Les griffes et le couturier : Représentations et usages contrastés de l'animalité dans l'iconographie de la mode. Sociologie. Université de Perpignan, 2018. Français. ⟨NNT : 2018PERP0047⟩. ⟨tel-02146008⟩

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