Le chapeau à Paris. Couvre-chefs, économie et société, des guerres de Religion au Grand Siècle (1550-1660)

Abstract : In the first half of the early modern period, time of political and religious troubles, and of great geographical discoveries that opened new trade opportunities, we approached the subject of hat and headdresses history in their technical, commercial (in the capital, the Court, the kingdom and abroad), esthetical (evolutions of forms, embroideries, feathers, hat badges) and social ways (manners and signification of wearing them). In the peculiar Parisian context of this period, this trade, changed by the apparition of beaver and the social obligation to have everybody’s head covered, has a deep impact not only on the evolution of the Parisian hatters’ wealth but also on Parisians’ and Courtiers’ wardrobes themselves. Without headdresses preserved, details about them are scattered in documentary sources: for example, we can find them in the writings of authors and moralizing people, in engravings of French people like Abraham Bosse, in works of Flemish painters like Jan Miense Molenaer, but also in criminal archives where they can be sometimes even motives of murder! Far from just being clothing accessories, headdresses in the early modern period are essential to socialize and characterize human beings: through them, we can grasp national identity, age, wealth, profession, social status and knowledge of civility rules (especially to raisesomebody’s cap to someone, a tradition established from medieval times). Also, at that time, their importance is reconsidered because of the challenge by the Protestants about their social significance and by the discovery of new societies with other relation to clothes, which put the traditional and European approach into perspective.
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Tiphaine Gaumy. Le chapeau à Paris. Couvre-chefs, économie et société, des guerres de Religion au Grand Siècle (1550-1660). Histoire. Paris, Ecole nationale des chartes, 2015. Français. ⟨NNT : 2015ENCP0001⟩. ⟨tel-01940119⟩

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