HAL will be down for maintenance from Friday, June 10 at 4pm through Monday, June 13 at 9am. More information
Skip to Main content Skip to Navigation

Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues

Abstract : Wave-dominated sandy coasts are highly dynamic and populated systems increasingly threatened by erosion hazard. Understanding and predicting shoreline change is critical to inform and guide stakeholders. However, there is currently no numerical model able to reproduce and predict shoreline evolution over the full range of temporal scales and coastal geometries owing to numerical and physical limitations. This thesis focuses on the development of new reduced-complexity models to simulate shoreline change along wave-dominated sandy coasts on the timescales from hours to decades with low computation time. First, a statistical shoreline change model based on the seasonal occurrences of some oceanic basin weather regimes is developed. This model allows simulating shoreline variability at the seasonal and interannual scales, without resorting to wave data or sediment transport modeling. Second, a new so-called LX-Shore numerical wave-driven shoreline change model is developed, which takes the best from some existing models and includes additional numerical and physical developments. LX-Shore couples the primary longshore and cross-shore processes and includes the feedback of shoreline and bathymetric evolution on the wave field using a spectral wave model. LX-Shore successfully simulates the dynamics of coastal embayments or the formation of subsequent nonlinear evolution of complex shoreline features such as flying sandspits. It is anticipated that LX-Shore will provide new and quantitative insight into the respective contributions of the processes controlling shoreline change on real coasts for a wide range of wave climates and geological settings.
Document type :
Complete list of metadata

Contributor : Abes Star :  Contact
Submitted on : Friday, March 30, 2018 - 12:37:09 PM
Last modification on : Tuesday, February 22, 2022 - 3:05:53 AM


Version validated by the jury (STAR)


  • HAL Id : tel-01755070, version 1



Arthur Robinet. Modélisation de l’évolution long-terme du trait de côte le long des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action des vagues. Sciences de la Terre. Université de Bordeaux, 2017. Français. ⟨NNT : 2017BORD0946⟩. ⟨tel-01755070⟩



Record views


Files downloads