. La-décoloration-de, ICN sur l'extrait brut concentré Le charbon actif mis en oeuvre a été fourni par Naturex Une quantité de charbon actif en poudre équivalente à 7 % de la masse de l'extrait mise en oeuvre a été ajoutée à l'extrait solubilisé dans un mélange méthanol/éthanol, puis la solution est restée sous agitation à 50 °C pendant une heure

J. Bruneton and . Pharmacognosie, Phytochimie, Plantes médicinales, 2009.

L. Petit and H. , Lexique des termes médicaux, pp.29-2017, 1998.

. Ifremer and . Géosciences-marines-néphélométrie, page consultée le 17 mai 2017. 6 L'Oréal. Le marché cosmétique -Le monde de la beauté en 2015, Nephelometrie>, pp.10-2016, 2011.

L. Armand, Le marché des cosmétiques est en pleine transformation, <http://www.premiumbeautynews.com/fr/le-marche-des-cosmetiques-est-en, pp.10-2016, 2015.

T. Mitsui, in New Cosmetic Science, 499 p., Ch. 9 Preservation of Cosmetics p, pp.199-208, 1997.

L. M. Prescott, J. P. Harley, and D. Klein, A. in Microbiologie. 2ème édition, 1137 p., Ch. 3 La cellule procaryote : structures et fonctions p, pp.1-73, 2003.
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00479249

P. S. Basu, B. B. Biswas, and M. K. Pal, MOLECULAR MECHANISM OF GRAM STAINING, The Journal of General and Applied Microbiology, vol.15, issue.3, pp.365-373, 1969.
DOI : 10.2323/jgam.15.365

. Micromol, Aspergillus brasiliensis, pp.24-2017, 2010.

. Emlab, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, <https://www.emlab.com/s/sampling/env-report-03, pp.24-2017, 2007.

J. Mussard, Les parabens, des conservateurs omniprésents : un risque pour la santé ?, 2006.

D. K. Brannan, Cosmetic Preservation, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, vol.46, pp.199-220, 1995.

P. D. Darbre, Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours, Journal of Applied Toxicology, vol.24, issue.1, pp.5-13, 2004.
DOI : 10.1002/jat.958

R. Kiyama and Y. Wada-kiyama, Estrogenic endocrine disruptors: Molecular mechanisms of action, Environment International, vol.83, pp.11-40, 2015.
DOI : 10.1016/j.envint.2015.05.012

F. Castelain and M. Castelain, Parabens: a real hazard or a scare story?, Eur. J. Dermatol, vol.22, pp.723-727, 2012.

E. R. Kabir, M. S. Rahman, and I. Rahman, A review on endocrine disruptors and their possible impacts on human health, Environmental Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol.40, issue.1, pp.241-258, 2015.
DOI : 10.1016/j.etap.2015.06.009

A. R. Travassos, L. Claes, L. Boey, J. Drieghe, and A. Goossens, Non-fragrance allergens in specific cosmetic products, Contact Dermatitis, vol.24, issue.5, pp.276-285, 2011.
DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2009.03506.x

J. L. Beaudeux, Sources cellulaires des esp??ces r??actives de l???oxyg??ne et de l???azote, Annales Pharmaceutiques Fran??aises, vol.64, issue.6, pp.373-381, 2006.
DOI : 10.1016/S0003-4509(06)75332-9

A. Judde, Pr??vention de l???oxydation des acides gras dans un produit cosm??tique??: m??canismes, cons??quences, moyens de mesure, quels antioxydants pour quelles applications???, Ol??agineux, Corps gras, Lipides, vol.11, issue.6, pp.414-418, 2004.
DOI : 10.1051/ocl.2004.0414

URL : https://doi.org/10.1051/ocl.2004.0414

J. Cillard and P. Cillard, M??canismes de la peroxydation lipidique et des anti-oxydations, Ol??agineux, Corps gras, Lipides, vol.13, issue.1, pp.24-29, 2006.
DOI : 10.1051/ocl.2006.6666

URL : https://doi.org/10.1051/ocl.2006.6666

C. López-alarcón and A. Denicola, Evaluating the antioxidant capacity of natural products: A review on chemical and cellular-based assays, Analytica Chimica Acta, vol.763, pp.1-10, 2013.
DOI : 10.1016/j.aca.2012.11.051

Y. Rolland, Antioxydants naturels v??g??taux, Ol??agineux, Corps gras, Lipides, vol.11, issue.6, pp.419-424, 2004.
DOI : 10.1051/ocl.2004.0419

URL : https://doi.org/10.1051/ocl.2004.0419

X. Fernandez, F. Merck, and A. Kerdudo, Conservateurs pour cosmétiques -Antioxydants et anti- UV. Techniques de l'ingénieur Cosmétiques TIB634DUO 35 National Toxicology Program, Report on Carcinogens, pp.1-23, 2012.

A. Pop, B. Kiss, and F. Loghin, Endocrine disrupting effects of butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA - E320) Clujul Med 37 International Standardization Organization, Huiles essentielles - Nomenclature, vol.86, issue.4720, pp.16-20, 2009.

E. Giménez-arnau and . Qu, Qu???est-ce qu???un parfum??? Diversit?? des allerg??nes et l??gislation europ??enne, Revue Fran??aise d'Allergologie, vol.49, issue.3, pp.279-285, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.reval.2009.01.013

F. Guéritte and T. Sévenet, Les substances naturelles en chimiothérapie anticancéreuse, Biofutur, vol.26, pp.35-38, 2007.

G. J. Nychas, C. C. Tassou, M. L. Tortorello, and C. A. Batt, in Encyclopedia of Food Microbiology. 2ème édition, 3248 p. Preservatives, Traditional Preservatives -Oils and Spices p, pp.113-118, 2014.

J. L. Rios, M. C. Recio, and A. Villar, Screening methods for natural products with antimicrobial activity: A review of the literature, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol.23, issue.2-3, pp.127-149, 1988.
DOI : 10.1016/0378-8741(88)90001-3

I. M. Choma and E. M. Grzelak, Bioautography detection in thin-layer chromatography, Journal of Chromatography A, vol.1218, issue.19, pp.2684-2691, 2011.
DOI : 10.1016/j.chroma.2010.12.069

W. Brack, Effect-directed analysis: a promising tool for the identification of organic toxicants in complex mixtures?, Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, vol.377, issue.3, pp.397-407, 2003.
DOI : 10.1007/s00216-003-2139-z

V. L. Cebolla, L. Membrado, C. Jarne, and R. Garriga, 2220 p. Ch. 1 High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography p, Analytical Separation Science, vol.4, pp.1093-1142, 2015.

L. M. Magalhães, M. A. Segundo, S. Reis, and J. L. Lima, Methodological aspects about in vitro evaluation of antioxidant properties, Analytica Chimica Acta, vol.613, issue.1, pp.1-19, 2008.
DOI : 10.1016/j.aca.2008.02.047

M. J. Arts, A critical appraisal of the use of the antioxidant capacity (TEAC) assay in defining optimal antioxidant structures, Food Chemistry, vol.80, issue.3, pp.409-414, 2003.
DOI : 10.1016/S0308-8146(02)00468-5

M. J. Arts, A new approach to assess the total antioxidant capacity using the TEAC assay, Food Chemistry, vol.88, issue.4, pp.567-570, 2004.
DOI : 10.1016/j.foodchem.2004.02.008

A. Zulueta, M. J. Esteve, and A. Frígola, ORAC and TEAC assays comparison to measure the antioxidant capacity of food products, Food Chemistry, vol.114, issue.1, pp.310-316, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.foodchem.2008.09.033

W. Brand-williams, M. E. Cuvelier, and C. Berset, Use of a free radical method to evaluate antioxidant activity, LWT - Food Science and Technology, vol.28, issue.1, pp.25-30, 1995.
DOI : 10.1016/S0023-6438(95)80008-5

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01197008

I. F. Benzie and J. J. Strain, The Ferric Reducing Ability of Plasma (FRAP) as a Measure of ???Antioxidant Power???: The FRAP Assay, Analytical Biochemistry, vol.239, issue.1, pp.70-76, 1996.
DOI : 10.1006/abio.1996.0292

R. Pulido, L. Bravo, and F. Saura-calixto, Antioxidant Activity of Dietary Polyphenols As Determined by a Modified Ferric Reducing/Antioxidant Power Assay, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, vol.48, issue.8, pp.3396-3402, 2000.
DOI : 10.1021/jf9913458

V. Mancebo-campos, M. D. Salvador, and G. Fregapane, Comparative Study of Virgin Olive Oil Behavior under Rancimat Accelerated Oxidation Conditions and Long-Term Room Temperature Storage, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, vol.55, issue.20, pp.8231-8236, 2007.
DOI : 10.1021/jf070915y

X. Fernandez, F. Merck, and A. Kerdudo, Conservateurs pour cosmétiques -Généralités et conservateurs antimicrobiens, Techniques de l'ingénieur Cosmétiques TIB634DUO, pp.1-25, 2012.

T. Ryan, L'activité de l'eau, une autre façon de voir l'humidité, pp.38-41, 2003.

. Cosmébio, 60 COSMOS-standard. The COSMOS-standard, <https://cosmos-standard <http://cosmos-standard-rm.org/data/index.php> (2016), page consultée le 28 septembre 2016. 62 NATRUE, page consultée le 28 septembre 2016. 61 COSMOS-standard. COSMOS-standard databases page consultée le 28 septembre 2016. 64 Convention on Biological Diversity. Texte de la Convention page consultée le 8 juillet 2016. 65 Convention on Biological Diversity. Histoire de la Convention, pp.28-2016, 1992.

N. Myers, Threatened biotas: "Hot spots" in tropical forests, The Environmentalist, vol.35, issue.1, pp.187-208, 1988.
DOI : 10.1007/978-94-009-9597-0

R. A. Mittermeier, Hotspots Revisited: Earth's Biologically Richest and Most Endangered Terrestrial Ecoregions. 392 p. (Conservation International, 2005.

K. J. Williams, Forests of east Australia: the 35th biodiversity hotspot p 71 Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund, Biodiversity Hotspots, pp.295-310, 2011.

R. Noss, Announcing the World's 36th Biodiversity Hotspot: The North American Coastal Plain, <http://www.cepf.net/news/top_stories/Pages/Announcing-the-Worlds-36th-Biodiversity- Hotspot, page consultée le 9 avril 2016. 73 Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund. Mediterranean Basin, pp.24-2016, 2016.

L. Carles and L. Thiébault, Guide de la flore des Alpes-Maritimes : du Mercantour à la Méditerranée, Gilletta Nice-Matin, vol.432, 2010.

A. Casanova-euzenot, Appel à projets recherche finalisée du Conseil Régional PACA, <http://www.coteazur .cnrs.fr/Services, Sp vAOProjetsRechercheFinaliseeRegion, vol.view>, pp.2-2016, 2016.

P. Pôle, Pôle de compétitivité Parfums Arômes Senteurs Saveurs, pp.2-2016, 2016.

A. Kerdudo, Optimisation de la conservation des cosmétiques -Impact de la formulation, recherche de nouveaux conservateurs naturels, encapsulation, 2014.

M. Heinrich, 12 Ethnopharmacology and Drug Discovery p, Comprehensive Natural Products II , 7388 p, pp.351-381, 2010.

B. Augusti, A. Linde-athayde, and M. , Importance of HPLC in Analysis of Plants Extracts

E. Reich and A. Schibli, High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography for the Analysis of Medicinal Plants, 2006.
DOI : 10.1055/b-002-66241

H. Wagner, S. Blandt, and E. María-zgainski, Plant drug analysis : a thin layer chromatography atlas. 2ème édition, 2009.

F. Haddouchi, Chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of the essential oils from four Ruta species growing in Algeria, Food Chemistry, vol.141, issue.1, pp.253-258, 2013.
DOI : 10.1016/j.foodchem.2013.03.007

A. G. Al-bakri and F. U. Afifi, Evaluation of antimicrobial activity of selected plant extracts by rapid XTT colorimetry and bacterial enumeration, Journal of Microbiological Methods, vol.68, issue.1, pp.19-25, 2007.
DOI : 10.1016/j.mimet.2006.05.013

N. Fakhfakh, Chemical composition of volatile compounds and antioxidant activities of essential oil, aqueous and ethanol extracts of wild Tunisian Ruta chalepensis L. (Rutacea), J. Med. Plants Res, vol.6, pp.593-600, 2012.

C. Ramos, Linnaeus (Lauraceae) from Portugal, Natural Product Research, vol.4, issue.1, pp.518-529, 2012.
DOI : 10.1016/j.bpc.2006.02.007

N. Fukuyama, L., Natural Product Research, vol.24, issue.14, pp.1295-1303, 2011.
DOI : 10.1016/S0040-4039(00)93739-0

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/halshs-00394281

S. El, N. Karagozlu, S. Karakaya, and S. Sah?n, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activities of Essential Oils Extracted from <i>Laurus nobilis</i> L. Leaves by Using Solvent-Free Microwave and Hydrodistillation, Food and Nutrition Sciences, vol.05, issue.02, pp.97-106, 2014.
DOI : 10.4236/fns.2014.52013

A. M. Maccioni, Preservative systems containing essential oils in cosmetic products, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol.6, issue.1, pp.53-59, 2002.
DOI : 10.1016/0305-1978(89)90005-7

M. Ali, Comparative Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activities of Phenolic Compounds Extracted from Five Hypericum Species, Food Technol. Biotechnol, vol.49, pp.205-2013, 2011.

Z. Saddiqe, I. Naeem, and A. Maimoona, A review of the antibacterial activity of Hypericum perforatum L., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol.131, issue.3, pp.511-521, 2010.
DOI : 10.1016/j.jep.2010.07.034

S. Djeddi, In vitro antimicrobial properties and chemical composition of Santolina chamaecyparissus essential oil from Algeria, Nat. Prod. Commun, vol.7, pp.937-940, 2012.

Y. Ruiz-navajas, In Vitro Antioxidant and Antifungal Properties of Essential Oils Obtained from Aromatic Herbs Endemic to the Southeast of Spain, Journal of Food Protection, vol.89, issue.7, pp.1218-1225, 2013.
DOI : 10.1016/j.fbp.2010.11.006

N. Mauric and !. Jardin, Encyclopédie -Santolina chamaecyparissus -Santoline 'Petit Cyprès, pp.14-2017, 2000.

A. Jardin, Santolina chamaecyparissus, pp.14-2017, 2017.

T. Botanica, Santolina chamaecyparissus, <http://sophy.tela-botanica, pp.11-2017, 2001.

L. Jardin and P. Vert, Santoline petit cyprès -Santolina chamaecyparissus, pp.14-2017, 2017.

. Pharmacopée-française, Liste A des plantes médicinales utilisées traditionnellement, <http://ansm.sante.fr/var/ansm_site/storage/original/application, pp.14-2017, 2016.

J. Lam, H. Bildsøe, L. P. Christensen, and T. Thomasen, Chemical Constituents of Santolina chamaecyparissus., Acta Chemica Scandinavica, vol.43, pp.799-802, 1989.
DOI : 10.3891/acta.chem.scand.43-0799

R. Y. Cavero, S. Akerreta, and M. I. Calvo, Pharmaceutical ethnobotany in the Middle Navarra (Iberian Peninsula), Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol.137, issue.1, pp.844-855, 2011.
DOI : 10.1016/j.jep.2011.07.001

B. Demirci, T. Özek, and K. H. Baser, L. Essential Oil, Journal of Essential Oil Research, vol.3, issue.5, pp.625-627, 2000.
DOI : 10.1080/10412905.1991.9697907

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01559677

F. Bohlmann, C. Arndt, J. Starnick, and L. Polyacetylenverbindungen, Polyacetylenverbindungen, L. Zuordnung isomerer enol??ther durch nmr-spektroskopie, Tetrahedron Letters, vol.4, issue.24, pp.1605-1610, 1963.
DOI : 10.1016/S0040-4039(01)90879-2

F. Bohlmann, Polyacetylenverbindungen, LVI. Neue Acetylenverbindungen ausChrysanthemum-Arten, Chemische Berichte, vol.95, issue.4, pp.1179-1192, 1964.
DOI : 10.1002/cber.19640970434

L. P. Christensen, Acetylenes and related compounds in anthemideae, Phytochemistry, vol.31, issue.1, pp.7-49, 1992.
DOI : 10.1016/0031-9422(91)83002-3

F. Bohlmann, C. Zdero, and . Polyacetylenverbindungen, Über die Inhaltsstoffe von Santolina rosmarinifolia L, Chem. Ber, vol.214, issue.106, pp.845-848, 1973.
DOI : 10.1002/cber.19731060314

T. J. De-pascual, I. S. Bellido, M. S. González, and S. Vicente, Tetracyclic triterpenes and nerolidol derivatives from Santolina oblongifolia, Phytochemistry, vol.25, issue.1, pp.185-190, 1985.
DOI : 10.1016/S0031-9422(00)94526-6

B. Ferrari, F. Tomi, and J. Casanova, Terpenes and acetylene derivatives from the roots of Santolina corsica (Asteraceae), Biochemical Systematics and Ecology, vol.33, issue.4, pp.445-449, 2005.
DOI : 10.1016/j.bse.2004.11.001

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00289221

. Actualitix, Dichloromethane -Summary of Classification and Labelling, <https://echa.europa.eu/information-on-chemicals/cl-inventory-database, Carte de Provence Alpes Côtes d'Azur (PACA) page consultée le 24 octobre 2017. 109 INERIS. Dichlorométhaneineris.fr/substances/fr/substance/784> (2017), page consultée le 15 octobre 2017. 110 European Chemicals Agency page consultée le 15 octobre 2017. 112 AFSSAPS. Recommandations aux fabricants ou aux responsables de la mise sur le marché relatives à l'évaluation de la sécurité pour la santé humaine d'un ingrédient ou d'une combinaison d'ingrédients à usage cosmétique, pp.7285-7288, 1204.

R. Watt and P. , Molecular distillation, Vacuum, vol.6, pp.113-160, 1956.
DOI : 10.1016/0042-207X(56)90009-4

. Newonat, Distillation moléculaire, <http://www.newonat-sas.fr/PBCPPlayer, pp.684082-684089, 2017.

F. Cecen and O. Aktas, Activated Carbon for Water and Wastewater Treatment: Integration of Adsorption and Biological Treatment, 2011.

A. Lavaud, X. Fernandez, F. Merck, C. Monin, Y. Rolland et al., Extracts of Santolina chamaecyparissus, pp.140290-140291, 2015.

A. Kerdudo, P. Burger, F. Merck, A. Dingas, Y. Rolland et al., Development of a natural ingredient ??? Natural preservative: A case study, Comptes Rendus Chimie, vol.19, issue.9, pp.1077-1089, 2016.
DOI : 10.1016/j.crci.2016.06.004

N. Mauric and !. Jardin, Encyclopédie -Ruta chalepensis -Rue d'Alep, pp.15-2017, 2000.

A. Mansour and S. , Studies on Ruta chalepensis, an ancient medicinal herb still used in traditional medicine, J. Ethnopharmacol, vol.28, pp.305-312, 1990.

R. Zeichen-de-sa, A. Rey, E. Argañaraz, and E. Bindstein, Perinatal toxicology of Ruta chalepensis (Rutaceae) in mice, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol.69, issue.2, pp.93-98, 2000.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-8741(98)00232-3

M. E. Gonzalez-trujano, Neuropharmacological profile of an ethanol extract of Ruta chalepensis L. in mice, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol.106, issue.1, pp.129-135, 2006.
DOI : 10.1016/j.jep.2005.12.014

V. L. Singleton and J. A. Rossi, Colorimetry of Total Phenolics with Phosphomolybdic- Phosphotungstic Acid Reagents, Amer. J. Enol. Viticult, vol.16, pp.144-158, 1965.

A. Kerdudo, P. Burger, F. Merck, A. Dingas, Y. Rolland et al., Development of a natural ingredient ??? Natural preservative: A case study, Comptes Rendus Chimie, vol.19, issue.9
DOI : 10.1016/j.crci.2016.06.004

X. Fernandez, F. Merck, and A. , Kerdudo : Conservateurs pour cosmétiques ? Généralités et conservateurs antimicrobiens, Techniques de l'Ingénieur J 2, p.284, 2012.

F. Merck and X. Fernandez, Applications de l'HPTLC-EDA à l'étude de l'activité antimicrobienne et antioxydante d'extraits végétaux, Forum LABO & BIOTECH, 2013.

F. Merck and X. Fernandez, Mediterranean biodiversity as a source of new natural preservatives. Trends in Natural Products Research: a young scientists meeting of PSE and ÖPhG, 2013.