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La biodiversité végétale au service des ingrédients naturels : étude des propriétés antimicrobiennes et antioxydantes d’extraits végétaux et développement d’un conservateur naturel pour l’industrie cosmétique

Abstract : This PhD thesis is part of the NATUBAVAL project that aims at discovering new natural preservatives for the cosmetics industry, issued from one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots: the Mediterranean Basin. Seventeen plant extracts were obtained and screened for their antimicrobial properties against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Aspergillus brasiliensis and Candida albicans and their antioxidant capacity. Santolina chamaecyparissus extract was found to present superior properties and selected for further investigation. A bioguided fractionation permitted to isolate the major compound of the most active fraction, that was identified as the active compound, a known spiroketal enol from the polyacetylenes family. An optimization of the crude extract of interest was then performed in order to maximize its activity and to face the challenge of an industrial scale-up and its incorporation in a cosmetic formulation. Finally, this study introduces a natural ingredient development strategy that might potentially be used as an alternative to synthetic preservatives in cosmetics.
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Florence Merck. La biodiversité végétale au service des ingrédients naturels : étude des propriétés antimicrobiennes et antioxydantes d’extraits végétaux et développement d’un conservateur naturel pour l’industrie cosmétique. Autre. COMUE Université Côte d'Azur (2015 - 2019), 2017. Français. ⟨NNT : 2017AZUR4118⟩. ⟨tel-01708778⟩

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