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Étude de l’évolution de la teneur en chrome hexavalent dans le cuir, influence des conditions de fabrication et importance des facteurs environnementaux

Abstract : Currently, 80 to 85% of leather is tanned with chrome. This process allows to obtain excellent physico-mechanical properties with optimum economic conditions. The chromium salts in trivalent form used in the manufacturing of leather are not harmful; however under some conditions and associated with other substances, trivalent chromium can be transformed into hexavalent chromium, highly allergenic and potentially harmful to the health of the consumer. Since 1st May 2015, the presence of hexavalent chromium in leather is subject to European legislation; the hexavalent chromium content must not exceed 3 mg/kg of the total dry weight of leather (REACh ANNEX 17, § 47). To date, a great amount of research has been done and initial hypothesis have been able to explain the formation of hexavalent chromium in leather. The objective of this research project was to rationalize and to deal with these various studies in order to understand this problem in more detail. In this thesis project, the introduction of ion chromatography has improved the specificity and reliability of the analysis method for the determination of hexavalent chromium. Secondly, the influence of leather composition (fat liquor, iodine value, pH, total chromium and extractible chromium) on the formation of hexavalent chromium in leather was studied. The objective was to explain the potential oxidation mechanisms of trivalent chromium (in hexavalent chromium). The third part of this study deals with environmental factors (temperature, relative humidity, light and duration of exposure), leather manufacturing conditions or the life cycle of leather (transport, transformation into finished product, consumer use). The aim was to determine the impact of these parameters on the formation of hexavalent chromium. To conclude, an "artificial" ageing method representing the natural evolution of leather, and which corresponds to the characteristics and the nature of the leather, has been proposed
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Submitted on : Monday, January 15, 2018 - 5:20:50 PM
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Mathilde Fontaine. Étude de l’évolution de la teneur en chrome hexavalent dans le cuir, influence des conditions de fabrication et importance des facteurs environnementaux. Chimie analytique. Université de Lyon, 2017. Français. ⟨NNT : 2017LYSE1155⟩. ⟨tel-01684756⟩

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