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Modélisation morphodynamique pluri-décennale des côtes dominées par la marée et les vagues

Abstract : This work considers the pluri-decadal morphodynamic modeling of sandy coastal environments subjected to tides and waves. A process-based numerical model is used, together with a collection of field data from the LIENSs laboratory (i.e. bathymetric, hydrodynamic, and seismic data). To simulate the morphodynamic of these environments, two main numerical developments have been added to the model : (1) the sediment heterogeneity, and (2) the bed evolution computation following a WENO-based scheme adapted to unstructured grids. The first model application concerns the 40-year hindcast (period 1960 to 2000) of a wide estuary mouth sandbank located in the Marennes-Oléron bay : the Longe de Boyard sandbank. Numerical results suggest that this sandbank long-term evolution is strongly controlled by waves, in spite of its global tide-dominated morphology. Rhythmic nature of sediment accretion, which is observed and modeled in the south part of the bank, was then analyzed from a stratigraphic point of view thanks to the integration of sediment heterogeneity into the model. Grain size rhythmic variations in this area appeared to be related to local wave climate seasonality. The second model application considers the Arçay sandspit evolution (Vendée coast). Morphodynamic results suggest that this sandspit evolution, mainly controlled by waves, is characterized by a combination of both autogenic and external-influenced behaviors.
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Thomas Guerin. Modélisation morphodynamique pluri-décennale des côtes dominées par la marée et les vagues. Sciences de la Terre. Université de La Rochelle, 2016. Français. ⟨NNT : 2016LAROS002⟩. ⟨tel-01661720⟩

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