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Theses

Spectroscopies vibrationnelles (MCR et ATR-FTIR) et Chromatographie Liquide couplée à la Spectrométrie de Masse Haute Résolution (LC-HR-MS) : Outils d’investigation in vivo de l’impact du vieillissement cutané sur le Stratum Corneum aux niveaux tissulaire, supra-moléculaire et moléculaire

Abstract : Skin is the external surface defining the human body in space. Its outer-most layer is a thin biological membrane, called Stratum Corneum(SC), that protects the internal organs from desiccation as well as chemical or mechanical external aggressions. The present thesis aimsin a first step, to summarize the current knowledge regarding the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging on SCphysiology,based on available literature. The experimental part addresses the gaps in our understanding of the effects of chronological aging and photoaging on the SC barrier function and hydration, using traditional methods (such as trans epidermal water loss and skin conductance) as well as more advanced ones (vibrational spectroscopies, liquid chromatography in normal phase tandem mass spectrometry high resolution with an APCI source and an Orbitrap detector. As these methods are non-invasive, all studies have been carried out in vivo. The evolution of the barrier function has been studied at the tissular, molecular and supramolecular levels using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy. Then the link between the intrinsic aging and the ceramides of the intercorneocytary lipid matrix has been studied by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry. The discriminant molecules between young and old population have been identified by a chemometric analysis. The evolution of cutaneous hydration at the tissular, molecular and supramolecular level has also been investigated. The variations in the NMF composition and the SC water content have been studied by Raman spectral descriptors. Moreover, the structural variations of water molecules impacting the supramolecular organization of the lipid structures have been evaluated. Chronological aging and chronic exposure to environmental factors mildly affect SC barrier function and hydration levels. However, the processes controlling these properties are affected by aging in a site-dependent fashion.
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Submitted on : Monday, May 23, 2016 - 1:01:58 AM
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Elise Boireau-Adamezyk. Spectroscopies vibrationnelles (MCR et ATR-FTIR) et Chromatographie Liquide couplée à la Spectrométrie de Masse Haute Résolution (LC-HR-MS) : Outils d’investigation in vivo de l’impact du vieillissement cutané sur le Stratum Corneum aux niveaux tissulaire, supra-moléculaire et moléculaire. Chimie analytique. Université Paris Sud - Paris XI, 2015. Français. ⟨NNT : 2015PA112070⟩. ⟨tel-01319754⟩

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