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Développement de méthodologies analytiques et statistiques pour le contrôle de la naturalité de matières premières pour la cosmétique et la parfumerie

Abstract : Essential oils extract from aromatics, medicinal and perfume plants, are used since ancient times for their medicinal or olfactory properties. They are quite expensive, and owing to the actual growing demand for getting high quality materials at lowest prices, fraudulent essential oils are frequently found on the market. In order to fight this problem, norms exist (AFNOR, pharmacopeas) which have to be respected. However those techniques are often limited. This work allowed great improves in the quality control of citrus and lavender essential oils. The knowledge of the chemical composition of volatiles and polymethoxy-flavones (lemon), of the chirale ratios of alpha-pinene, le sabinene (citrus), linalool et linalyl acetate (bergamot et lavender), isotope ratio analyses of carbon 13, deuterium, of linalool, linalyl acetate (bergamot et lavender), citral, geranyl acetate (lemon) as wall as isotope ratio analyses of deuterium of nitrogen 15 du Nmethyl anthranilate de methyl (mandarin) permitted the detection of various type of frauds. In order to have an efficient methodology, principal component and discriminant analyses have been proved indispensables. It allowed the identification of fraudulent samples via volatiles molecules study. Chirale analysis and isotope ratio highlight frauds on more “discrete” adulterated samples or a better understanding of adulteration’s process
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Aude Mazollier. Développement de méthodologies analytiques et statistiques pour le contrôle de la naturalité de matières premières pour la cosmétique et la parfumerie. Chimie analytique. Université Claude Bernard - Lyon I, 2013. Français. ⟨NNT : 2013LYO10004⟩. ⟨tel-01172177⟩

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