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Le commerce équitable à l'épreuve de la mode : Le rôle de la critique dans la formation des marchés

Abstract : This dissertation studies the role of criticism in the social construction of markets. Fair Trade, and especially ethical fashion, are analyzed as extreme cases of moral uncertainty related to the organization of markets. The qualitative analysis of secondary data, observations, interviews, and artefacts enables us to follow the actors through perfomative controversies. Inspired by French pragmatic sociology (Boltanski, Callon, Latour), this research highlights the process of framing, reframing and overframing that makes the compromises on values and market rules more or less stable. Historically, the frame of fair clothes values the production process of goods. Then, in the 2000’s, the emergence of pure players contributes to reframe fair clothes to fashion goods. Finally, at the end of the 2000’s, conventional brands of the fashion market raise controversies by involving in the ethical fashion markets. More precisely, this research studies the endeavour of the Ethical Fashion Show to organize the market. It aims at making three contributions. First, it proposes the notion of market entre-preneurship to describe the activity consisting in making compromises between market and its criticisms. Second, it highlights the notion of economic performativity by clarifying the multiple ways that criticisms shape market agencements. Third, it sheds light on the material and spatial dimensions of the social construction of markets by analyzing devices of qualification, disqualification and control.
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Vivien Blanchet. Le commerce équitable à l'épreuve de la mode : Le rôle de la critique dans la formation des marchés. Gestion et management. Université Paris Dauphine - Paris IX, 2013. Français. ⟨NNT : 2013PA090070⟩. ⟨tel-01018494⟩

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