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Caractérisation physico-chimique et sensorielle d'ingrédients cosmétiques: une approche méthodologique

Abstract : The texture of cosmetics is a complex and multidimensional notion, which must be studied on the one hand by sensory analysis, but also on the other hand by an instrumental characterization, notably including rheology and texture analysis. Although both types of characterization seem to be related, very few studies in the field of cosmetics were able to link the sensory perception of the texture to instrumental, rheological and mechanical properties of the products. The aim of this work was twofold: firstly, investigating the influence of a particular ingredient, the polymer as texturing agent, on the final properties of texture conferred to cosmetic creams, and secondly, developing a predictive tool of sensory texture properties by instrumental measurements simple to implement. Eight hydrophilic polymers, natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic, were incorporated, each at a concentration of 1 % w/w, in an oil-in-water emulsion, of a relatively complex composition close to a real product. A cream without any texturing agent was also used as a control. On the basis of the Spectrum Descriptive Analysis method, a methodology for analyzing the sensory texture properties of the creams was developed, allowing to qualify and quantify the contribution of each polymer on the final textural properties of creams, thanks to eight attributes, namely Gloss, Integrity of Shape, Penetration Force, Compression Force, Stringiness, Difficulty of Spreading, Absorbency and Stickiness. Then, a rheological analysis of the products, performed with different flow tests, oscillations in strain and in time and creep-relaxation tests, allowed to finely characterize the creams' behavior in a microscopic scale, whereas a broad characterization of the mechanical properties of the products was carried out using a texture analyzer, by notably setting up various imitative tests of the sensory protocols, and by varying the large experimental conditions. Finally, very good predictive models were obtained for six of the eight sensory properties, using uni- and multivariate regression tools. Robustness and efficacy in the prediction were checked for the established models of the Integrity of Shape, Penetration Force and Stringiness, by performing a cross-validation step using 5 new commercial products. Thus, an imitative test of compression/tension, set up with the texture analyzer enables to predict the Stringiness, while a combination of parameters from both the rheological and mechanical tests enable to predict the two other properties, for various products.
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  • HAL Id : tel-00956601, version 1


Laura Gilbert. Caractérisation physico-chimique et sensorielle d'ingrédients cosmétiques: une approche méthodologique. Polymères. Université du Havre, 2012. Français. ⟨NNT : ⟩. ⟨tel-00956601⟩



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