, 07 7) ) qui ont adapté l'approche énergétique en incluant l'influence du vent et des marées, ou Ces études mettent en valeur la précision des formules grâces à la comparaison des valeurs calculées avec des mesures réalisées sur le terrain, p.0
, ) voire même entre plusieurs modèles afin d'observer leur comportement réciproque, pp.19-99
, Ces études concernent uniquement la modélisation du transport longitudinal or des expressions sont également utilisées pour modéliser le transport transversal, pp.19-99
, Ces couplages hydrodynamiques et morphologiques ont également permis d'étudier la morphogénèse des barres pré-littorales aquitaines, 99900.
, ) ou d'étudier l'impact de tempêtes sur les plages méditerranéennes et du nord de la France
, 19 99 94 4) ) sur le littoral estdunkerquois ou encore
, 19 99 98 8) ) avaient également utilisé cette technique sur les côtes belges avec plus de succès puisqu'ils avaient pu déterminer l'intensité du transport sédimentaire
, 08 8) ) sur les côtes de Charente-Maritime ou encore, p.0
, utilisation de modèles ou de formules numériques permettant de déterminer le transport potentiel a été également très utilisée avec plus ou moins de vérification sur le terrain
, ) ) sur le littoral de la côte d'Opale) ) sur l, 20 00 06 6) ), pp.99-94
, 19 97 72 2) ), la formation et la stabilité de ces formes sédimentaires ainsi que leurs migrations transversales successives sur l'estran reste un point récurent et fondamental très souvent abordé mais toujours pas complètement élucidé, 99922.
, 19 99 98 8) ), 19 99 99 9) )
, 02 2) ), p.0
, ) )
, ) ). Leur présence et leur mouvement à travers la zone intertidale attestent la présence d'un transport sédimentaire transversal essentiellement orienté
, -(1999) -Grain size influence on sediment transport in oscillatory sheet flow, phase-lags and mobile-bed effects
, The distribution of nearshore bedforms and effects on sand suspension on low-energy, micro-tidal beaches in Southwestern Australia. Marine geology, pp.41-61, 2000.
, Twenty-five years with OBS sensors: The good, the bad, and the ugly, Continental Shelf Research, vol.26, issue.17-18, pp.2299-2318, 2006.
DOI : 10.1016/j.csr.2006.07.018
, The origin, classification and modelling of sand banks and ridges, Continental Shelf Research, vol.19, issue.10, pp.1285-1330
DOI : 10.1016/S0278-4343(99)00028-X
, -(1967) -A monograph on sediment transport in alluvial streams, Teknisk Vorlag, p.62
, Measuring and modelling longshore sediment transport, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, vol.83, issue.1, pp.47-59, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.ecss.2009.03.020
, Measured cross-shore and vertical variations in grain size, sorting and composition in suspended sediments transported by longshore currents, Journal of Coastal Research. Special Issue, vol.50, pp.615-619, 2007.
, Longshore sediment transport rates on a reef-fronted beach: field data and empirical models Kaanapali Beach, Hawaii, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.19, 2002.
, -(1954) -Petrology of sedimentary rocks. Austin Hemphill's, p.154
, Brazos River bar [Texas]; a study in the significance of grain size parameters, Journal of Sedimentary Research, vol.27, issue.1, pp.3-26, 1957.
DOI : 10.1306/74D70646-2B21-11D7-8648000102C1865D
, Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.15, issue.no. 4, pp.3651-3659, 1968.
DOI : 10.1029/JB073i012p03651
, -(1995) -A fortran program for grain-size trend analysis to define net sediment transport pathways, Computers and Geosciences. 22, pp.449-452
, -(1991) -A critique of the "McLaren Method" for defining sediment transport paths. Sedimentary Petrology, pp.61-143
, Net sediment transport patterns inferred from grain-size trends, based upon definition of ???transport vectors???, Sedimentary Geology, vol.81, issue.1-2, pp.47-60, 1992.
DOI : 10.1016/0037-0738(92)90055-V
, Analysis of grain size trends, for defining net sediment transport patterns in marine environments, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.10, pp.70-78, 1994.
, The use of grain size trends in marine sediment dynamics: a review, Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, vol.19, issue.3, pp.265-271, 2000.
, Tides and tidal power in the Bay of Fundy, Endeavour, vol.8, issue.2, pp.58-64
DOI : 10.1016/0160-9327(84)90039-5
, Influence of watertable on beach aggradation and degradation, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.7, pp.655-660, 1948.
, Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.82, issue.12, pp.1779-1808, 1979.
DOI : 10.1029/JC084iC04p01797
, The Continental-Shelf Bottom Boundary Layer, Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, vol.18, issue.1, pp.265-305, 1986.
DOI : 10.1146/annurev.fl.18.010186.001405
, Observed and predicted bed forms and their effect on suspended sand concentrations, Coastal Engineering, vol.51, issue.5-6, pp.351-371, 2004.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.05.001
, -(1991) -Equilibrium slopes and cross-shore velocity asymmetries in a storm-dominated barred nearshore system. Marine geology, pp.211-235
, Field measurements of longshore sediment transport during storms, Coastal Engineering, vol.36, issue.4, pp.310-321, 1999.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00010-1
, Ridge and runnel beach morphodynamics: an example from the central east coast of Ireland, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.8, pp.906-918, 1992.
, Littoral drift formula, Beach erosion Board Bullettin. U.S Army Engineer Waterways experiment Station Vicksburg, MS, vol.4, pp.4-5, 1938.
, Sedtrans05: An improved sediment-transport model for continental shelves and coastal waters with a new algorithm for cohesive sediments, Computers & Geosciences, vol.34, issue.10, pp.1223-1242, 2008.
DOI : 10.1016/j.cageo.2008.02.007
, Aeolian sediment transport on beaches and coastal sand dunes, Canadian Symposium on Coastal San Dunes, 1990.
, Caractérisation morphodynamique des sites de Malo-les-bains et de Calais-Hoverport, 2008.
, -(1985) -Murlough Spit, Dundrum Bay, pp.68-76
, -(1978) -What's in a name? Descriptive or genetic implications of dridge and runnel topography. Marine geology, pp.1-8
, -(1996) -Vertical and horizontal structure in suspended sand concentrations and wave-induced fluxes over bedforms. Marine geology, pp.195-208
, Côtes en danger. 2e édition : L'Harmattan, p.250, 2004.
, Gain size trend analysis for the determination of non-biogenic sediment transport pathways on the Kwinte Bank (Southern North Sea), in relation to sand Dredging, Journal of Coastal Research. Special Issue, vol.51, pp.95-100, 2010.
, Application of grain size trends analysis for the determination of sediment transport pathways in intertidal areas. Marine geology, pp.35-49, 1996.
, The use of grain size trend analysis in macrotidal areas with breakwaters: Implications of settling velocity and spatial sampling density, Marine Geology, vol.253, issue.3-4, pp.253-259, 2008.
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2008.05.003
, The effect of bubbles on optical backscatter sensors. Marine geology, pp.87-97, 2006.
, Contribution à la connaissance de la morphodynamique des plages à barres intertidales: Approche expérimentale, Côte d'Opale, Nord de la France, 2003.
, The variability of ridge and runnel beach morphology: examples from Northern France, Journal of Coastal Research. SpeciaI Issue, vol.36, pp.612-621, 2002.
, Bed-load transport for steady flows and unsteady oscillatory flows, Coastal Engineering, vol.34, issue.1-2, pp.52-82, 1998.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00013-1
, Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.113, issue.1, pp.707-727, 1994.
DOI : 10.1029/94JC00380
, (1993) -Sediment transport of fine sand under asymmetric oscillatory flow, Z
, Measurement of Longshore Sediment Transport Rates in the Surf Zone on Galveston Island, Texas, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.2, pp.62-73, 2008.
DOI : 10.2112/05-0564.1
, Development of a portable sand trap for use in the nearshore. Department of the army, U.S. Corps of Engineers, 1989.
, Superduck surf zone sand transport experiment, 1990.
, -(1999) -A cross-shore transport " shape function " for high energy beaches, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.15, pp.198-205
, Influence of high water levels on aeolian sand transport: upper beach/dune evolution on a macrotidal coast, Geomorphology, vol.60, pp.1-2, 2004.
, -(2009) -Identifying forcing conditions responsible for foredune erosion on the northern coast of France, Journal of Coastal Research. Special Issue, vol.56, pp.356-360
, Fonctionnement et dynamiques morpho-sédimentaires du littoral du delta du Rhone, Thèse de Doctorat, 2001.
, Transport sédimentaire de la dune à la zone du déferlement sur une plage sableuse soumise à des vents de terre, VIIIèmes Journées Nationales Génie Civil ? Génie Côtier. Compiègne, pp.7-9, 2004.
, -(1962) -Laboratory Determination of Littoral Transport rates, Journal of the Waterways, Port. Coastal. Coastal and Ocean Division, issue.WW2, pp.69-92
, Review of the field-data base for longshore sediment transport, Coastal Engineering, vol.19, issue.1-2, pp.1-25
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(93)90017-3
, Evaluation of 10 cross-shore sediment transport/ morphological models, Coastal Engineering, vol.25, issue.1-2, pp.1-41
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(94)00040-5
, Morphodynamique transversale et longitudinale de plages à barres intertidales en domaine macrotidales et en conditions de forte agitation: Baie de Wissant, 2006.
, Storm-generated morphological change and longshore sand transport in the intertidal zone of a multi-barred macrotidal beach, Marine Geology, vol.244, issue.1-4, pp.209-229, 2007.
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.07.002
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00482312
, Etude de la propagation des vagues au-dessus d'une bathymétrie complexe en zone de surf, Thèse de Doctorat, p.241, 2003.
, Application of similarity principles and turbulence research to bed-load movement, Mitteilunger der Preussischen Versuchsanstalt für Wasserbau und Schiffbau, pp.5-24, 1936.
, -(1991) -Macro-meso tidal beach morphodynamics ? An overview, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.7, pp.417-436
, -(1996) -The influence of long waves on macrotidal beach morphology, Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp.3090-3103
, Les plages macrotidales du Nord ? Pas-de-Calais: contexte environnemental et caractérisation morphodynamique, Thèse de doctorat de Géographie Physique, 1998.
, Morphology and Hydrodynamics of a macrotidal ridge and runnel beach under modal low conditions, Journal de Recherche Océanographique, vol.24, pp.25-31, 1999.
, Laboratory Study of Wave???Breaking over Bars and Artificial Reefs, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.117, issue.4, pp.307-325
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1991)117:4(307)
, Longshore Sediment Transport as a Function of Energy Dissipation, Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001), 2001.
DOI : 10.1061/40604(273)123
, Cohesion par capillarité et comportement mécanique de milieux granulaires, Thèse de Doctorat de Mécanique, 2005.
, Dynamics of marine sands, a manual for practical applications, 1997.
, -(1961) -Schaum's Outline of Theory and Problems in Statistics
, Evolution morphodynamique d'une plage à Barres: Omaha beach (Normandie) Thèse de Doctorat Spécialité: Sciences de la Terre et de l, 2002.
, Séquences d'évolution morphodynamique des barres intertidales d'une plage macrotidale: l'exemple d'Omaha beach (Normandie, France) Morphodynamical evolution sequences of intertidal bars on a macrotidal beach: case study of Omaha beach, Oceanologica Acta. 26, pp.167-177, 2003.
, Sediment Transport on a Macrotidal Ridge and Runnel Beach during Accretion Conditions, Coastal Dynamics '01, pp.1017-1027, 2001.
DOI : 10.1061/40566(260)104
, Predicting initial motion and bedload transport of sediment particles in the shallow marine environment, Shelf Sediment Transport, Process and Pattern, pp.61-83, 1972.
, -(1997) -Signature des rythmes tidaux dans les séries sédimentaires, Lille. Mémoire HDR. Université des sciences et techniques de Lille
, -(1999) -Internal structure of shoreface banks revealed by high-resolution seismic reflection in a macrotidal environment, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.15, issue.3, pp.593-606
, Energy saturation and phase speeds measured on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.84, issue.363, pp.9499-9508
DOI : 10.1029/JC087iC12p09499
, Transformation of wave height distribution, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.87, issue.WW2, pp.5925-5938
DOI : 10.1029/JC088iC10p05925
, Evaluation of Longshore Transport Equations with OBS Sensors, Streamer Traps, and Fluorescent Tracer, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.215, issue.5, pp.915-931, 2005.
DOI : 10.2112/04-0209.1
, Sedimentology and stratigraphy of a tidal sand bank in the southern North Sea, Marine Geology, vol.159, issue.1-4, pp.253-272, 1999.
DOI : 10.1016/S0025-3227(99)00007-9
, -(2006) -Évolution géomorphologique d'une côte sableuse anthropisée: l'exemple d'Hardelot-plage
, The effects of mid-foreshore groundwater effluent zone on tidal cycle sediment distribution in Puget Sound, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.6, issue.3, pp.597-610, 1990.
, -(1993) -Water table outcropping on macrotidal beaches: a simulation model. Marine geology, pp.227-238
, Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches, Journal of Arid Environments, vol.39, issue.3, pp.533-547
DOI : 10.1006/jare.1997.0364
, Spatial and temporal variability in ridge and runnel morphology along the North Lincolnshire Coast, 2004.
, An evaluation of two alongshore transport equations with field measurements, Coastal Engineering, vol.56, issue.3, pp.313-319, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.09.001
, Pump-filter Sampler, 1979.
, Mathematical modelling of suspended sediment in non uniform flow, Journal of Hydraulic Engineering. ASCE, vol.112, issue.N°9, 1986.
, Prediction of dune erosion due to storms, Coastal Engineering, vol.56, issue.4, pp.295-327, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.006
, -(1993) -Manual sediment transport measurements
, -(1993) -Manual sediment transport measurements
, Principles of sediment transport in rivers, estuaries and coastal seas, 1993.
, The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based Profile models, Coastal Engineering, vol.47, issue.3, pp.47-295, 2003.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00120-5
, Monitoring and modeling nearshore morphodynamic behaviour on storm time scales, p.103, 2009.
, Dune erosion during storm surges, Thèse de doctorat, 0200.
, Bio-optical properties of coastal waters in the Eastern English Channel, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, vol.72, issue.1-2, pp.201-212, 2007.
DOI : 10.1016/j.ecss.2006.10.016
, Predictive Computational Model for Beach and Dune Erosion during storm Surges, Proc. Coastal Structures Conference, pp.806-819, 1983.
, -(1995) -Predicting suspended sand concentration profiles on a macro-tidal beach. Continental Shelf Research, pp.1497-1514
, Acoustic measurements of suspended sand on the shoreface and the control of concentration by bed roughness. Marine geology, pp.1-18, 1991.
, Sediment Transport of Fine Sands at High Velocities, Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, vol.117, issue.7, pp.869-890
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(1991)117:7(869)
, -(2000) -Sediment resuspension on beaches: response to breaking waves. Marine geology, pp.167-187
, Measuring and modelling sediment transport on a macrotidal ridge and runnel beach: an intercomparison, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.14, issue.1, pp.315-330, 1998.
, -(1998) -Longshore sediment transport flux in water column and across the surf zone, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
, Temporal and spatial variations of surf-zone currents and suspended sediment concentration. Coastal Engineering, pp.175-211, 2002.
, -(1998) -Total longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone-field measurement and empirical predictions, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.14, pp.269-282
, -(1953) -A study of sand movement at south Lake Worth Inlet, Florida. Beach Erosion Board
, A Scale of Grade and Class Terms for Clastic Sediments, The Journal of Geology, vol.30, issue.5, pp.377-392
DOI : 10.1086/622910
, Status of measurement techniques for coastal sediment transport, Coastal Engineering, vol.35, issue.1-2, pp.17-45, 1998.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00033-7
, Observed and predicted vertical suspended sediment concentrations profiles and bedforms in oscillatory-only flow, Journal of Coastal Research, vol.16, pp.698-708, 2000.
, -(1976) -The Morphology, Sedimentary Structures and Processes of the Foreshore at Ainsdale
, Morphodynamics of beaches and surf zones in Australia, CRC Handbook of coastal processes and erosion, pp.35-64, 1983.
, Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine geology, pp.93-118, 1984.
, Dynamics of a high energy dissipative surf zone. Marine geology, pp.41-62, 1982.
, An expression for bedload transportation, Journal of Hydraulics Division Proceedings ASCE, vol.89, issue.HY3, pp.105-119, 1963.
, Kinematics of breaking waves and associated suspended sediment in the nearshore zone. Continental Shelf Research, pp.1219-1242, 1993.
, Calculation of longshore sediment transport in Shijiu Bay, International Conference on Estuaries and Coasts, 2003.
, 19 2.1. Situation géographique
, 75 5.5.1. Carte de différentiel topographique Extraction de profils transversaux de plage et calcul des paramètres morphologiques des barres intertidales, p.75
, 146 2.2.2. Caractérisation de la distribution verticale du transport sédimentaire longitudinal grâce au calcul du coefficient de décroissance 148 2.2.3. Différenciation de la distribution verticale des flux en fonction de la zone hydrodynamique Le rôle du déferlement dans la mise en suspension des particules sédimentaires Influence de la rugosité du fond sur la mise en suspension du sédiment, 146 2.2.1. Description de la distribution des flux sédimentaires. 157 2.2.7. Comparaison entre les profils de transport sédimentaire longitudinaux et les profils de vitesse au sein de la colonne d'eau 160 2.2.8. Comparaison des flux longitudinaux mesurés à une hauteur z (m) au dessus du fond avec les paramètres hydrodynamiques. 162 2.2.9. Conclusion sur la répartition verticale des flux sédimentaires longitudinaux, p.165
, Influence de la morphologie de la plage sur les flux sédimentaires longitudinaux 172 ? Campagne d'Hardelot, p.173, 2009.
, 175 2.4.1. Exemples : Mesures de flux sédimentaires longitudinaux lors de conditions d'énergie modérées 178 ? Détails de la journée du 24, Variations transversales des flux sédimentaires longitudinaux au cours.................. 178 ? Détails de 3 journées d'échantillonnages lors de la campagne de Wissant, p.180, 2010.
, 201 1.1. Précision sur la significativité du transport sédimentaire mesuré dans la composante transversale 201 1.2. Caractérisation des forçages contrôlant le transport sédimentaire transversal orienté vers le haut de plage (F on ) Comparaison des flux sédimentaires transversaux avec la vitesse transversale mesurée à haute fréquence (2Hz), 201 1.2.1. Comparaison des flux transversaux intégrés à la colonne d'eau avec les paramètres hydrodynamiques en fonction de la zone 209 1.2.3. Conclusion sur les relations entre le transport sédimentaire transversal et les paramètres hydrodynamiques, p.211
, 211 1.3.1. Caractérisation de la distribution verticale du transport sédimentaire transversal grâce au calcul du coefficient de décroissance Comparaison entre les profils de transport sédimentaire transversaux et les profils de vitesse au sein de la colonne d', ., p.215
, 231 2.4.1. Etude comparée de la taille du grain entre les flux sédimentaires transversaux, 231 2.4.2. Répartition verticale de la taille du grain pour les flux transversaux et longitudinaux .... 233
, 251 1.1.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), p.253, 2008.
, 256 1.2.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), p.257, 2009.
, 261 1.3.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), Approche 3D, vol.261, p.264, 2009.
, 268 1.4.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), Approche 3D, vol.268, pp.2010-269
, 272 1.5.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), p.272, 2009.
, 276 1.6.1. Conditions météo-marines (Rappel), Approche 3D, vol.276, issue.276, pp.2010-279
, 324 2.3. Evolution du transport sédimentaire à travers l'estran et sous diverses conditions hydrodynamiques, p.325
, 335 3.3. Deux composantes pour deux morphodynamiques bien distinctes, ., p.338