Modélisation physique de la dynamique hydro-sédimentaire des plages

Abstract : This study investigates the morphological changes of cross-shore beach profiles for irregular waves. It is based on physical modeling carried out in the LEGI flume (36 m). The originality lies in the use of lightweight sediment in order to fulfill scaling laws and obtain experimental beach profiles in similitude with the ones observed in nature. The concept of equilibrium beach profile for a given wave climate is verified and the Wright & Short (1984)'s classification is refined for intermediate Dean numbers (1
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Contributor : Florent Grasso <>
Submitted on : Friday, November 13, 2009 - 3:43:48 PM
Last modification on : Thursday, January 3, 2019 - 4:30:08 PM
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  • HAL Id : tel-00432041, version 1

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Florent Grasso. Modélisation physique de la dynamique hydro-sédimentaire des plages. Océan, Atmosphère. Université Joseph-Fourier - Grenoble I, 2009. Français. ⟨tel-00432041⟩

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