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Dynamique des plages sableuses soumises à l'action des vagues, de la marée et des rechargements artificiels

Abstract : The thesis is devoted to the study of the cross-shore hydrodynamic and hydro-sedimentary processes and related morphodynamics on dissipative sandy beaches subjected to waves, tide and artificial nourishments. The adopted method is based on a deterministic numerical modelling which couples the wave propagation model FUNWAVE based on the fully linear equations of Wei et al. with two different sediment transport models and a module of morphological evolution. The first 1DH transport model includes the corrected near-bottom velocity proposed by Lynett and the Bailard's total sediment transport formula. The second pseudo-2DV transport model is a series of vertical turbulence-closure models expressed in sigma-coordinated. The double approach is validated by experiments in laboratory (mainly in the Delta Flume of Delft Hydraulics in The Netherlands) and in situ on the Pentrez beach in the bay of Douarnenez (Finistère). The waves propagation and the vertical structure of velocities and suspended sediment concentrations are fairly well reproduced. The morphological evolution, like bar migration, is correctly reproduced in spite of an excessive smoothing. The 1DH model, more stable and cheaper from a computally point of view than the pseudo-2DV model, was applied to quantify the influence of the various parameters on morphodynamics of plane beaches under waves and tide. Results of simulations fit with the descriptive model of Masselink and Short. Finally, the 1DH model has been run to explore the behaviour of artificial nourishments and sketch some practical recommendations.
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Contributor : David Morellato Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Tuesday, July 28, 2009 - 4:08:12 PM
Last modification on : Tuesday, April 19, 2022 - 10:16:53 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Monday, October 22, 2012 - 12:30:32 PM


  • HAL Id : tel-00380212, version 2



David L. Morellato. Dynamique des plages sableuses soumises à l'action des vagues, de la marée et des rechargements artificiels. Océan, Atmosphère. Université de Bretagne occidentale - Brest, 2008. Français. ⟨tel-00380212v2⟩



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