T. Barberon, P. Helluy, and S. Rouy, Practical computation of axisymmetrical multifluid flows, Internat. J. Finite Volumes, vol.1, pp.1-34, 2003.
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00139598

B. Biausser, S. T. Grilli, and P. Fraunié, Numerical Simulations of Three-dimensional Wave Breaking by Coupling of a VOF Method and A Boundary Element Method, Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engrg. Conf., ISOPE03, pp.333-339, 2003.

B. Biausser, S. Guignard, R. Marcer, and P. Fraunié, 3D two phase flows numerical simulations by SL-VOF method, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.45, issue.6, pp.581-604, 2004.
DOI : 10.1002/fld.708

J. U. Brackbill, B. D. Kothe, and C. Zemach, A continuum method for modeling surface tension, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.100, issue.2, pp.335-354, 1992.
DOI : 10.1016/0021-9991(92)90240-Y

C. De-jouëtte, H. Viviand, S. Wormon, and J. M. Le-gouez, Pseudo compressibility method for incompressible flow calculation, 4th Int. Symposium on computational Fluid Dynamics, pp.9-12, 1991.

A. Dervieux, Résolution deprobì emesàemes`emesàfrontì ere libre. Thesis, 1981.

T. Gallouët, J. Hérard, and N. Seguin, Some approximate Godunov schemes to compute shallow-water equations with topography, Computers & Fluids, vol.32, issue.4, pp.479-513, 2003.
DOI : 10.1016/S0045-7930(02)00011-7

S. T. Grilli, Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow Models used for Long Wave Runup Prediction, pp.116-180, 1997.

S. T. Grilli and R. Subramanya, Numerical modeling of wave breaking induced by fixed or moving boundaries, Computational Mechanics, vol.294, issue.3, pp.374-391, 1996.
DOI : 10.1007/BF00363981

S. T. Grilli and I. A. Svendsen, Corner problems and global accuracy in the boundary element solution of nonlinear wave flows, Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements, vol.7, issue.4, pp.178-195, 1990.
DOI : 10.1016/0955-7997(90)90004-S

S. T. Grilli, P. Guyenne, and F. Dias, A fully non-linear model for three-dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.20, issue.7, pp.829-867, 2001.
DOI : 10.1002/1097-0363(20010415)35:7<829::AID-FLD115>3.0.CO;2-2

S. T. Grilli, M. A. Losada, and F. Martin, The Breaking of a Solitary Wave over a Step: Modeling and Experiments Applied Science, Fluid Flow Modelling, Proc. 4th Intl. Conf. on Hydraulic Engineering Software (HYDROSOFT92, p.586, 1992.

S. T. Grilli, M. A. Losada, and F. Martin, Characteristics of Solitary Wave Breaking Induced by Breakwaters, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.120, issue.1, pp.74-92, 1994.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:1(74)

S. T. Grilli, J. Skourup, and I. A. Svendsen, An efficient boundary element method for nonlinear water waves, Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements, vol.6, issue.2, pp.97-107, 1989.
DOI : 10.1016/0955-7997(89)90005-2

S. T. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Breaking Criterion and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.123, issue.3, pp.102-112, 1997.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1997)123:3(102)

S. T. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Discussions and Closure: Breaking Criterion and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.124, issue.6, pp.333-335, 1997.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1998)124:6(329)

S. T. Grilli, R. Subramanya, I. A. Svendsen, and J. Veeramony, Shoaling of Solitary Waves on Plane Beaches, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.120, issue.6, pp.609-628, 1994.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:6(609)

S. Guignard, S. T. Grilli, R. Marcer, and V. Rey, Computation of Shoaling and Breaking Waves in Nearshore Areas by the Coupling of BEM and VOF Methods, Proc. 9th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf., ISOPE99, pp.304-309, 1999.

S. Guignard, R. Marcer, V. Rey, C. Kharif, and P. Fraunié, Solitary wave breaking on sloping beaches: 2-D two phase flow numerical simulation by SL-VOF method, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, vol.20, issue.1, pp.57-74, 2001.
DOI : 10.1016/S0997-7546(00)01104-3

H. Guillard and C. Viozat, On the behaviour of upwind schemes in the low Mach number limit, Computers & Fluids, vol.28, issue.1, pp.63-86, 1999.
DOI : 10.1016/S0045-7930(98)00017-6
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00871725

C. W. Hirt and B. D. Nichols, Volume of fluid (VOF) method for the dynamics of free boundaries, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.39, issue.1, pp.323-345, 1981.
DOI : 10.1016/0021-9991(81)90145-5

C. Lachaume, B. Biausser, S. T. Grilli, P. Fraunié, and S. Guignard, Modeling of Breaking and Post-breaking Waves on Slopes by Coupling of BEM and VOF methods, Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf., ISOPE03, pp.353-359, 2003.

J. Li, Piecewise linear interface calculation, Fascicule B-Mecanique C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris Ser. II, 1995.

P. Lubin, S. Vincent, J. Caltagirone, and S. Abadie, Fully three-dimensional direct numerical simulation of a plunging breaker, Comptes Rendus M??canique, vol.331, issue.7, pp.495-501, 2003.
DOI : 10.1016/S1631-0721(03)00108-6
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00294098

P. Lubin, S. Vincent, J. Caltagirone, and S. Abadie, Large eddy simulation of vortices induced by plunging breaking waves, Proc. ISOPE 2004, 14th Intl. Offshore and Polar Enginering Conference and Exhibition, pp.306-312, 2004.

S. Osher and R. Fedkiw, Level Set Methods and Dynamic Implicit Surfaces, 2002.
DOI : 10.1115/1.1760520
URL : http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/s0898-1221(03)90179-9

P. Sagaut, Large eddy simulation for incompressible flows, 1998.

R. Saurel and R. Abgrall, A Simple Method for Compressible Multifluid Flows, SIAM Journal on Scientific Computing, vol.21, issue.3, pp.1115-1145, 1999.
DOI : 10.1137/S1064827597323749

J. A. Sethian, Level Set Methods: Evolving Interfaces in Geometry, Fluid Mechanics, Computer Vision and Materials Sciences, 1996.

M. Tanaka, The stability of solitary waves, Physics of Fluids, vol.29, issue.3, pp.650-655, 1986.
DOI : 10.1063/1.865459

S. Vincent, Modélisation d'´ ecoulements incompressibles de fluides non-miscibles, 1999.

S. Vincent and J. P. Caltagirone, Efficient solving method for unsteady incompressible interfacial flow problems, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.28, issue.6, pp.795-811, 1999.
DOI : 10.1002/(SICI)1097-0363(19990730)30:6<795::AID-FLD872>3.0.CO;2-2

S. Vincent and J. P. Caltagirone, A One-Cell Local Multigrid Method for Solving Unsteady Incompressible Multiphase Flows, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.163, issue.1, pp.172-215, 2000.
DOI : 10.1006/jcph.2000.6566

S. Vincent, J. P. Caltagirone, P. Lubin, and T. N. , Randrianarivelo, an adaptative augmented Lagrangian method for threedimensional multi-material flows, Comput. Fluids, 2004.

H. Viviand, Pseudo-unsteady methods for transonic flow computations, 19th Int. Conf. on Numerical Methods in Fluid Dynamics, p.141, 1980.
DOI : 10.1007/3-540-10694-4_4

H. Viviand, Analysis of pseudo-compressibility systems for compressible and incompressible flows, Comput. Fluids Dynamics Rev, 1995.

T. Yasuda, H. Mutsuda, and N. Mizutani, Kinematics of overturning solitary waves and their relations to breaker types, Coastal Engineering, vol.29, issue.3-4, pp.317-346, 1997.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(96)00032-4

S. Abadie, Modélisation numérique du déferlement plongeant par méthode vof, Thèse de Doctorat, 1998.

F. Ardhuin and T. H. Herbers, Bragg scattering of random surface gravity waves by irregular seabed topography, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.451, pp.1-33, 2002.
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112001006218

D. R. Basco, Surfzone currents, Coastal Engineering, vol.8, issue.4, pp.389-392, 1984.
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(84)90033-4

B. Biausser, Suivi d'interface tridimensionnel de type Volume Of Fluid : application au déferlement, Thèse de Doctorat, 2003.

B. Biausser, S. T. Grilli, P. Fraunié, and R. Marcer, Numerical analysis of the internal kinematics and dynamics of three-dimensional breaking waves on slopes, Int. J. Offshore and Polar Engng, vol.14, issue.4, pp.247-256, 2004.

B. Biausser, S. Guignard, R. Marcer, and P. Fraunié, Numerical simulations of free surface flows using a new VOF method, Proc. 4th Seminar Euler and Navier-Stokes Equations. Institute of Thermomechanics, 2001.

R. Bonnefille, Cours d'hydraulique maritime, 1992.

N. Booij, A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation, Coastal Engineering, vol.7, issue.3, pp.191-203, 1983.
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(83)90017-0

J. Brackbill, D. Kothe, and C. Zemach, A continuum method for modeling surface tension, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.100, issue.2, pp.335-354
DOI : 10.1016/0021-9991(92)90240-Y

D. Cartwright and M. Longuet-higgins, The Statistical Distribution of the Maxima of a Random Function, Proc. Royal soc. , A, pp.212-232, 1956.
DOI : 10.1098/rspa.1956.0173

R. Certain, Morphodynamique d'une côte sableuse microtidale à barres : le golfe du lion (languedoc roussillon), Thèse de Doctorat, 2002.

R. Certain, J. Barusseau, R. Capobianco, A. Meuret, V. Rey et al., Bottom and shoreline evolutions under wave actions at a french Mediterranean site : The beach of Sète, The fifth International Conference on the Mediterranean Coastal Environment, p.1, 2001.

R. Certain, S. Meule, V. Rey, and C. Pinazo, Swell transformation on a microtidal barred beach, Journal of Marine Systems, vol.38, pp.19-34, 2005.

A. Chorin, Numerical study of thermal convection in a fluid layer heated from below, p.61, 1966.

A. Chorin, 1967 : A numerical method for solving for solving incompressible viscous flows problems, JCP, vol.2, pp.12-26

E. D. Christensen and R. Deigaard, Large eddy simulation of breaking waves, Coastal Engineering, vol.42, issue.1, pp.53-86, 2001.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00049-1

E. D. Christensen, D. Walstra, and N. Emerat, Vertical variation of the flow across the surf zone, Coastal Engineering, vol.45, issue.3-4, pp.169-198, 2002.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00033-9

E. Cokelet, Mechanics of wave-induced forces on cykinders. Chapter Breaking waves, the plunging jet and interior flow-field, 1979.

L. Crocco, A suggestion for the numerical solution of the steady Navier-Stokes equations., AIAA Journal, vol.3, issue.10, pp.1824-1832
DOI : 10.2514/3.3266

P. Daniells, Discussion of, symposium on autocorrelation time series, J. Roy. Statist. Soc, vol.8, pp.88-90, 1946.

D. Jouëtte, C. Viviand, H. Wormon, S. Gouez, and J. L. , Pseudo compressibility method for incompressible flow calculation, 4th Int. Symposium on computational Fluid Dynamics, 1991.

M. W. Dingemans, Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms, Part I : Linear wave propagation, 1997.
DOI : 10.1142/1241-part2
URL : http://repository.tudelft.nl/islandora/object/uuid%3A67580088-62af-4c6f-b32e-b3940584e5d2/datastream/OBJ/view

D. Drevard, Mesure de la houle à l'aide d'un vélocimètre acoustique à effet doppler, 2002.

D. Drevard, A. Meuret, V. Rey, J. Piazzola, and A. Dolle, Partially reflected waves measurements using acoustic doppler velocimeter (ADV), 13th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference ISOPE'03, 2003.

S. Elgar, T. Herbers, and R. Guza, Reflection of Ocean Surface Gravity Waves from a Natural Beach, Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol.24, issue.7, pp.1503-1511, 1994.
DOI : 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<1503:ROOSGW>2.0.CO;2

F. Feddersen, E. Gallagher, R. Guza, and S. Elgar, The drag coefficient, bottom roughness, and wave-breaking in the nearshore, Coastal Engineering, vol.48, issue.3, pp.828-845, 2003.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(03)00026-7

C. Fochesato, Modèles numériques pour les vagues et les ondes internes, Thèse de Doctorat, 2004.

E. Fontaine, M. Landrini, and M. Tulin, Breaking : splashing and ploughing phases, Intl. Workshop on Water Waves and Floating Bodies, 2000.

J. Fredsoe and R. Deigaard, 1992 : Mechanics of coastal sediment transport

M. Freilich and R. Guza, Nonlinear Effects on Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, vol.311, issue.1515, pp.1-41, 1984.
DOI : 10.1098/rsta.1984.0019

S. Grilli, R. Gilbert, P. Lubin, S. Vincent, D. Legendre et al., Numerical modeling and experiments for solitary wave shoaling and breaking over a sloping beach, Proc. 14th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf. ISOPE04, pp.306-312, 2004.
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00084408

S. Grilli, P. Guyenne, and F. Dias, A fully non-linear model for three-dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.20, issue.7, pp.829-867, 2001.
DOI : 10.1002/1097-0363(20010415)35:7<829::AID-FLD115>3.0.CO;2-2

S. Grilli and J. Horillo, Computation of periodic wave shoaling over barredbeaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank, Proc. ISOPE98. Vol III, pp.294-300, 1998.

S. Grilli and J. Horrillo, Numerical Generation and Absorption of Fully Nonlinear Periodic Waves, Journal of Engineering Mechanics, vol.123, issue.10, pp.1060-1069, 1997.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9399(1997)123:10(1060)

S. Grilli, M. Losada, and F. Martin, The breaking of a solitary wave over a step : Modeling and experiments, Proc. 4th Intl. Conf. on Hydraulic BIBLIOGRAPHIE Engineering Software. HYDROSOFT92, pp.575-586, 1992.

S. Grilli, M. Losada, and F. Martin, Characteristics of Solitary Wave Breaking Induced by Breakwaters, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.120, issue.1, pp.74-92, 1994.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:1(74)

S. Grilli, J. Skourup, and I. Svendsen, An efficient boundary element method for nonlinear water waves, Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements, vol.6, issue.2, pp.97-107, 1989.
DOI : 10.1016/0955-7997(89)90005-2

S. Grilli and R. Subramanya, Numerical modeling of wave breaking induced by fixed or moving boundaries, Computational Mechanics, vol.294, issue.3, pp.374-391, 1996.
DOI : 10.1007/BF00363981

S. Grilli, I. A. Svendsen, and R. Subramanya, Breaking criterion and characteristics for solitary wave breaking on slopes, J. Waterw. Port C-ASCE, issue.3, pp.102-112, 1997.

S. Guignard, Suivi d'interface de type VOF : application au déferlement des ondes de gravité dû aux variations bathymétriques, Thèse de Doctorat, 2001.

S. Guignard, S. Grilli, R. Marcer, and V. Rey, Computational of shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore areas by the coupling of BEM and VOF methods, Proc. 9th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf. Vol III ISOPE, pp.304-309, 1999.

P. Guyenne and S. Grilli, Numerical study of three-dimensional overturning waves in shallow water, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.547, issue.-1, pp.57-74, 2003.
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112005007317

F. Harlow and J. Welch, Numerical Calculation of Time-Dependent Viscous Incompressible Flow of Fluid with Free Surface, Physics of Fluids, vol.8, issue.12, 1965.
DOI : 10.1063/1.1761178

K. Hasselmann, T. P. Barnet, E. Bouws, H. Carlson, D. E. Cartwright et al., Measurement of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the joint north sea wave project, Deut. Hydrogr. Z, vol.8, issue.12, pp.1-95, 1973.

A. D. Heathershaw, Seabed-wave resonance and sand bar growth, Nature, vol.296, issue.5855, pp.343-345, 1982.
DOI : 10.1038/296343a0

P. Helluy, F. Golay, J. Caltagirone, P. Lubin, S. Vincent et al., Numerical simulations of wave breaking, ESAIM: Mathematical Modelling and Numerical Analysis, vol.39, issue.3, pp.591-607, 2005.
DOI : 10.1051/m2an:2005024
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00017441

C. Hirt and B. Nichols, Volume of fluid (VOF) method for the dynamics of free boundaries, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.39, issue.1, pp.323-345, 1981.
DOI : 10.1016/0021-9991(81)90145-5

K. Horikawa, Nearshore dynamics and coastal processes, 1988.

O. Kimmoun, H. Branger, and B. Zuchinni, Laboratory piv measurements of wave breaking on a beach, Proc. 14th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf. ISOPE04, 2004.

C. Lachaume, B. Biausser, S. Grilli, P. Fraunié, and S. Guignard, Modeling of breaking and post-breaking waves on slopes by coupling of BEM and VOF methods, Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf. ISOPE03, pp.353-359, 2003.

J. Li, Piecewise linear interface calculation, Technical report Comptes Rendus de l Academie des Sciences Serie II, 1995.

M. Longuet-higgins and E. Cokelet, The Deformation of Steep Surface Waves on Water. I. A Numerical Method of Computation, Proc. R. Soc. London, pp.1-26, 1976.
DOI : 10.1098/rspa.1976.0092

M. Longuet-higgins and E. Cokelet, The Deformation of Steep Surface Waves on Water. II. Growth of Normal-Mode Instabilities, Proc. R. Soc. London, pp.1-28, 1978.
DOI : 10.1098/rspa.1978.0185

L. Lucy, A numerical approach to the testing of the fission hypothesis, The Astronomical Journal, vol.82, issue.12, pp.1013-1024
DOI : 10.1086/112164

R. Magne and F. Ardhuin, Current effects on scattering of surface gravity waves by bottom topography, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2006.
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00012166

R. Magne, V. Rey, and F. Ardhuin, Measurement of wave scattering by topography in the presence of currents, Physics of Fluids, vol.17, issue.12, p.601, 2005.
DOI : 10.1063/1.2140283

E. P. Mansard and E. R. Funke, The Measurement of Incident and Reflected Spectra Using a Least Squares Method, Coastal Engineering 1980, 1980.
DOI : 10.1061/9780872622647.008

A. Meuret, Etude d'un système PUVW pour des mesures de houle et de turbulence en milieu littoral et côtier, Thèse de Doctorat, 2004.

R. Miche, Le pouvoir réflechissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action de la houle, Ann. Ponts Chaussées, vol.121, pp.285-319, 1951.

R. L. Miller, ROLE OF VORTICES IN SURF ZONE PREDICTION: SEDIMENTATION AND WAVE FORCES, Soc. Econ. Paleontol. Mineral. Spec. Publ, 1976.
DOI : 10.2110/pec.76.24.0092

J. Monaghan, Simulating Free Surface Flows with SPH, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.110, issue.2, pp.399-406, 1994.
DOI : 10.1006/jcph.1994.1034

S. Osher and R. Fedkiw, Level Set Methods: An Overview and Some Recent Results, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.169, issue.2, pp.463-502, 2001.
DOI : 10.1006/jcph.2000.6636
URL : http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/summary?doi=10.1.1.110.552

D. H. Peregrine, E. D. Cokelet, and P. Mciver, The Fluid Mechanics of Waves Approaching Breaking, Coastal Engineering 1980, pp.512-528, 1980.
DOI : 10.1061/9780872622647.032

M. Prevosto, H. E. Krogstad, and A. Robin, Probability distributions for maximum wave and crest heights, Coastal Engineering, vol.40, issue.4, pp.329-360, 2000.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00017-X

V. Rey, R. Capobianco, and C. Dulou, Wave scattering by a submerged plate in presence of a steady uniform current, Coastal Engineering, vol.47, issue.1, pp.27-34, 2002.
DOI : 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00096-0

G. Rodriguez, C. G. Soares, and U. Machado, Uncertainty of the sea state parameters resulting from the methods of spectral estimation, Ocean Engineering, vol.26, issue.10, pp.991-1002
DOI : 10.1016/S0029-8018(98)00027-4

S. Shao and E. L. Yat-man, Numerical wave simulation by incompressible sph method, In : Inaugural Int. Conference on port and maritime R&D and technology, 2001.
DOI : 10.1061/40855(214)116

N. Sénéchal, H. Dupuis, and P. Bonneton, Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on, Ocean Dynamics, vol.54, pp.408-414, 2001.

C. Stransberg, Directional wave parameter interpretation and related statistical uncertainties, Journal of Hydraulic Research, vol.109, issue.3, pp.253-263, 2002.
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(83)90018-2

K. Takikawa, F. Yamada, and K. Matsumoto, 1997 : Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope, Coastal Engineering, vol.31, pp.1-4143

M. Tanaka, The stability of solitary waves, Physics of Fluids, vol.29, issue.3, pp.650-655, 1986.
DOI : 10.1063/1.865459

V. Tatavarti, D. Huntley, and A. Bowen, Incoming and seaward going wave interactions on beaches, Proc. 21st Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering, pp.136-150, 1988.
DOI : 10.1061/9780872626874.010

H. Viviand, Pseudo-unsteady methods for transonic flow computations, 19th Int. Conf. on Numerical Methods in Fluid Dynamics, 1980.
DOI : 10.1007/3-540-10694-4_4

H. Viviand, Systèmes pseudo-instationnaires pour le calcul d'écoulements stationnaires de fluides parfaits, 1983.

H. Viviand, Analysis of pseudo-compressibility systems for compressible and incompressible flows, Fluids Dynamics Review, 1995.

J. T. Walton, Wave reflection from natural beaches, Ocean Engineering, vol.19, issue.3, pp.239-258, 1992.
DOI : 10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2
URL : http://www.dtic.mil/get-tr-doc/pdf?AD=ADA240730

P. Welch, The use of fast Fourier transform for the estimation of power spectra: A method based on time averaging over short, modified periodograms, IEEE Transactions on Audio and Electroacoustics, vol.15, issue.2, 1967.
DOI : 10.1109/TAU.1967.1161901

L. Wright and A. D. Short, Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis, Marine Geology, vol.56, issue.1-4, pp.93-118, 1984.
DOI : 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2

H. Xü and D. Yue, Computations of fully nonlinear three-dimensional water waves, Proc. 19th Symp. On Naval Hydrodynamics, 1992.

. En-zone-littorale, la houle subit de fortes transformations par effets bathymétriques Une meilleure compréhension de ses modifications et des transferts d'énergie associés permet de mieux appréhender les problèmes de dimensionnement de structures côtières et d'aménagement du littoral

. La-première-partie, propose des méthodes de calcul, basées sur les houles de Stokes, pour la mesure d'ondes partiellement stationnaires à partir d'instruments de type électromagnétique (S4) ou acoustique (ADV) donnant des mesures synchrones de vitesses et/ou de pression. Les influences du courant , de la direction de propagation

. La-deuxième-partie, une méthode de suivi de surface libre de type SL-VOF (Semi-Lagrangian Volume Of Fluid), insérée dans un code de calcul industriel (code EOLE de la société Principia R&D). L'onde de gravité est modélisée par un soliton. L'étude de la propagation et du déferlement du soliton est effectuée pour deux applications : sur une marche (discontinuité du fond) puis sur un fond de pente constante 1/15