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Etude expérimentale et numérique de la propagation d'ondes de gravité en zone de déferlement

Abstract : In coastal area, the swell is under strong transformations by bathymetric effects. A better understanding of its modifications and its associated energy transfers allow a better approach of environmental problems as coastal structures design, beach and harbour protections. The purpose of this work consists in studying experimentally and numerically the propagation and the breaking of gravity waves.
In the first part, calculations, based on Stokes wave theory, are proposed for the measurement of partially
standing wave from electromagnetic (S4) or acoustic (ADV) instruments giving velocities and/or pressure
synchronous measurements. Influences of current, wave propagation direction, immersion depth of instrument
and nonlinear effects are then studied for both laboratory and nearshore experiments.
In the second part, an improved interface tracking algorithm (SL-VOF, Semi-Lagrangian Volume Of Fluid),
inserted in an industrial code (EOLE, Principia R&D) is validated for gravity wave breaking in shallow water. Two applications are considered for the study of the shoaling and the breaking of a solitary wave : over a step (discontinuity of the bottom) and over a constant mild slope (1/15). The evolution of the free surface, its elevation and the velocity field are then compared with experimental results.
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Contributor : Déborah Drevard <>
Submitted on : Monday, April 16, 2007 - 9:41:01 AM
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  • HAL Id : tel-00141744, version 1



Déborah Drevard. Etude expérimentale et numérique de la propagation d'ondes de gravité en zone de déferlement. Océan, Atmosphère. Université du Sud Toulon Var, 2006. Français. ⟨tel-00141744⟩



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